Fly front

Step 2 in the evolution of Simplicity 7513 is to add a fly front. Again, I’m cribbing from another pattern in my stash — this time, Vogue 7481, which is a simple pair of fly front pants (designed for stretch wovens, but we’ll ignore that).

There are two pattern pieces for the fly front — the right facing and the left facing. They look like this:

fly front facings

Instructions on putting them together below the fold.

Sew the front pants pieces together at the crotch seam underneath where your zipper will go. You should have a dot to mark the spot at which this seam will end. Then you put in the zipper and the fly facings. First the right, and then the left.

Right Fly Facing

1. This pattern piece is a basic rectangle, and the first step is to finish what will be the exposed edges of this piece. Fold the piece in half right sides together along the fold line, and stitch one short end close to the edge. Turn this right side out, and press. Then finish the long edge — I used a zigzag.

2. On the right front pants piece, fold in the raw edge above your stitching. With the zipper closed, align the zipper tape with the folded edge, pin, and baste.

Baste zipper tape at RF

You can see the white basting stitches. Usually I would do this by machine, but this is a very fine fabric and I didn’t want to have to rip out machine basting stitches, so I basted by hand.

3. Pin the right facing piece in place. To do this, flip over your pants, and align the raw edge of the right facing just outside of the zipper tape. The folded long edge should protrude into the opening, and the turned short edge should be at the bottom (the raw short edge will be enclosed within the waistband.

Pin RF facing

If you’d like, you can baste this piece in place — or if you are feeling confident, you can just flip the pants again and pin from the right side.

4. Sewing on the right side, with a zipper foot, sew through all your layers — pants front, zipper tape & front facing. Keep your stitches straight with respect to the zipper tape (some folks use a length of scotch tape to give them a straight guiding line). Press.

Left Fly Facing

This is the piece with two straight edges and a J-curve.

1. Finish the J-curve edge.

2. With right sides together, pin the left fly facing to the left front. Stitch. (In my photo, you can see that I’ve stitched a piece of cotton backing to this piece to add extra strength.

LF facing

3. Trim the seam, and then turn so that wrong sides are together. Press and edgestitch the opening — that is, run a line of stitches very close to the edge to keep that fold closed.

4. The next step will be to stitch the left zipper tape to the left opening. You want to ensure that you don’t stitch through the right facing when you do this. So before you start to line things up, turn back the right facing and pin it out of the way.

Turn your pants so that the right side of the fabric is facing you. Lap the left front over the right front. Pin in place. If you see wrinkles, use your iron to press them out until you are satisfied with the way that the pieces sit.

On the left side, using the zipper foot, stitch through: left pants front, left facing and zipper tape. Do not stitch through the right facing or else your pants will be sewn shut!

5. The final step is to topstitch on the left front, following that J-curve. I used water-soluable pencil to draw in the line so I had something to follow when I stitched.

topstich LF

Remove any leftover basting stitches, and you are done!

fly front


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